Our Trip to Australia and New Zealand

Trip 1-22 Jan, 2007 Australia-New Zealand cruise aboard the M.S. Statendam (Holland America). Karen (pronounced CAR-en) and Dave Gibson booked this trip back in June and asked us to go with them (we met the Gibsons on the Holland America Ryndam, during a Millennium Cruise through the Panama Canal). We (Jacqueline and Robin Simonds of Beagle Bay, Inc) thought that was a fine old idea and signed up—never guessing that in the Fall we’d buy a new house and start renovating, vastly complicating our lives! But I’m glad we went, as we got some much needed rest as well as seeing a part of the world we’d always wanted to see.

Because there was so much that we saw and did, I've broken this into four parts:

Arrived folded, stapled and mutilated courtesy of United’s Economy Plus seating. We took off 1 Jan and arrived today (thank you, International Dateline), 13 hours later. Robin has gout in his shoulders from being stuck in one position for so long. He’s having a full attack and it is very painful for him.

After a long wait at the airport, as the Holland America organizers aggregated people from several flights, we were bussed to Sofitel Hotel Wentworth. The bus driver pointed out that the doormen were all dressed in coats, tails and top hats. “Those men, ladies and gents, are what we call POMs. In the days when Sydney was just a colony and most of the inhabitants were prisoners, anyone in a uniform was referred to as a POM—which stands for Prisoner of [Her/His] Majesty. Calling someone a POM is an insult—and depending on the context, can be a joking one or pretty serious, leading almost immediately to a fight.” Language jokes my first day. I may be in heaven. A nice room awaited us.

R needed something to eat with his pills. Since it was 9 a.m., he thought a bagel might be nice. When I asked the concierge where I might find one, he looked blank (right—I’m not in the States any more). He informed me there were restaurants out on Bligh Rd. (Yes, named after Captain Bligh of Bounty fame, who was briefly governor of the Australia colony... until a coup overthrew him. The only time such a thing occurred in this country. What was with that guy anyway???). So I wandered out and found a Deli... and sure enough they had bagels—nice ones, too. I just can't get over walking on streets literally half a world away from where I was night before last. It's just amazing!

Later, Dave Gibson called and let us know they’d arrived (they took a separate flight). We met them in the lobby and walked over to this place on Bligh Road called “Ministry of Food” for lunch. There was a fella out front making this huge pan of paella (which, OK, isn't Aussie, but it's great eats!). It looked great and smelled even better. Inside it was sort of like a food court with table service. The manager invited us in and we had a delightful lunch.

Afterwards, we walked down to the harbor (Circular Quay) and got on the “Captain Cook’s Tea Time Harbor Cruise.” The rain we’d arrived in let up to give us a nicely cool, overcast day. Aussies were all in great moods, as the country is in the worst drought in its history and even a brief rain is a welcome event. We went to the top deck where we could get great views of the famed Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbor bridge—which celebrated it’s 75th birthday with grand fireworks at New Year’s (you should really click on this link, as it was a fabulous display!). At first I thought the Opera House’s roof had been “let go”—it looked gray-ish and yellowed in other spots. It turns out that the roof tiles are ceramic, with some being glazed and others not, to make

The Sydney Harbor Bridge and the docking facilities where the Statendam will be in two days.

patterns. What I was seeing was the pattern in a somewhat overcast day (you usually see pictures in broad daylight). We had a nice two hour cruise around Sydney Harbor—which is vast—some tea and biscuits, and got lots of sunburns (why didn’t I remember to take the sunscreen!).

Jacqueline Simonds, Karen and Dave Gibson on the Sydney Harbor Cruise. We look pretty good for people totally jet-lagged!

Circular Quay, Sidney, Australia

Sydney is a lovely, clean city. It was the first European city colonized on the continent of Australia, and now has 4.2 million people in the metro area (it sprawls out pretty far from the harbor). The Aboriginal people settled the area about 40,000 years ago. The British arrived in 1788. Of course, it was turned into a penal colony once America established its independence. For more history, Wikipedia or an actual book would be a good idea.

Took a taxi back up to the hotel (although it was pretty close, there was a steep hill between us and it that no one felt much like hiking up) and stopped in the bar for some drinks. The full day and travel took it’s toll and we retired to our room for room service and early bedtime. I knocked off at 7:30, R sat up to watch the Cricket playoffs between England and Australia.

The Australia Maritime Museum from the deck of the submarine HMAS Vampire, looking over the frigate HMAS Onslow and with the masts of the Endeavour in sight.

Took the Sydney Explorer Bus (for a set price, you can hop on and off all day, and has a recorded tour as you ride along) down to the Australian National Maritime Museum. Walked thru the ships at the dock: the Vampire is a diesel submarine, commissioned in 1969 and went out of service in 1999; a frigate Onslow of the same vintage and lastly, a recreation of Captain Cook’s Endeavour. It was a very faithful re-creation. Unfortunately, what that means is the

space amidships is very cramped. We were directed to “walk” down to the stern, but you had to make your way doubled over. They wanted us to sit and listen to a chat, but I knew if I was in pain my companions had to be equally uncomfortable—so we made our way out the (very narrow) hatchway. In America, we simply would not have been allowed in that area. An interesting difference is the Aussie assumption that “it’s your own lookout” what you can and can’t do vs. the American need to protect everyone from everything.

The museum is very nice, but the premier exhibit—Pirates!—was a huge let-down. As the author of Captain Mary, Buccaneer, pirates is a subject near and dear to my heart. Imagine my disappointment when we discovered that the exhibit was a huge children’s play piece with minimal information or artifacts.

True publishers, we; got hung up in the gift store looking at books that were bound in a way we'd never seen before. The Gibsons were very patient with us.

Had lunch at a café in Darling Bay, then walked to the Sydney Aquarium. An interesting place—if packed with out-of-school kids. Most of the aquarium is on barges in the harbor. Nice displays and an impressive section dedicated to the Great Barrier Reef.

Hopped back on the bus and went to “The Rocks”—a section of town that was once the roughest sort of place in colonial days and is now full of chic shops and pubs. We’d promised Dave we’d do a “pub crawl,” since he and Karen had been there 4 years ago and did the same. We did manage 2 pubs but apparently didn’t walk in the right direction, because we didn’t see any others. Did buy some great hats and got a belt in a super shop.

Dave Gibson and Jacqueline Simonds showing off their new chapeaus... which got better and better looking the more we drank!

Wandered over to the harbor to go to Doyle’s Restaurant which is right on the water (and next to where our ship will tie up tomorrow), where the Gibsons had eaten 4 years previously. Unfortunately, there was an unmoving line. It’s very popular, I guess. Decided to give up on it and find something else. Went down the harbor and came upon an outdoor bar called “Cruise” which had a separate restaurant on the 2nd floor. It turned out to be a remarkably affordable gourmet bistro. The chef combined flavors in an unexpected way that produced amazing, savory tastes. The made-to-order cheesecakes were simply astounding!

Full Moon Over Sydney Opera House from Circular Quay Park

Had breakfast with Karen and Dave at the Hotel. The busboy overheard Karen’s birthday wishes and sang a birthday song at the top of his voice—and very well, too. Dave told us that they were pooped out by the previous day and wanted to take it easy, so they were taking the bus tour Holland America arranged that would end in arrival at the ship. R and I wanted to tramp around the city, so we agreed to meet back on board.

After we made sure our luggage was picked up and sent to the ship, we walked to Hyde Park. This beautiful park takes up several city blocks. We spent some time at the Archibald Fountain.

Then walked down the lovely ficus tree-lined walkways (yes, that’s what your houseplant looks like all grown up!) to the WWI Memorial with its touching statue. It depicts a fallen soldier crucified on his rifle being held up by three women—a mother, a wife with child and a sister. It’s called “Sacrifice.”

The Sydney WWI memorial in Hyde Park

Next walked to the Australian Museum across the road. We especially wanted to see the Aboriginal Exhibit. Some really fascinating pieces of their history of which we’d known little (reading A Chant for Jimmie Blacksmith is a good start in understanding the cultural difficulties). Also saw the Mineral and Gem exhibit, which was fun.

Walked over to the beautiful City Hall and then to the Queen Victoria Building next door. This 4 story 19th C former commodities market is now a luxury mall (redone in 1986). Stores like Versace and Swarovski are featured (the Christmas tree reached all 4 floors and was covered with Swarovski crystals). Had a wander around and enjoyed the clocks that were built to do vignettes on the ½ hour about Sydney’s history. Remarkable!

After a snack, we caught a cab back to Circular Quay to discover the Statendam—our ship—docked and taking on passengers. It was a bit of a scrum as we arrived at the same moment 3 busloads of people showed up... among them, the Gibsons. But eventually we boarded and got our luggage in a timely fashion.

We cast off at 7:30. The Gibsons took us out to dinner at the Pinnacle Grill at 8. The loquacious Captain described every sight there was to see in Sydney Harbor from cast off to the time we sat down to dinner. When he signed off, the entire shipload of passengers and crew sighed with relief!

A wonderful dinner with special friends on a ship thousands of miles from home. The best kind of birthday!

6 Jan. At Sea Off Australia's East Coast.

Would love to say we did six million things before breakfast, but, in fact, mostly slept.

After a post-breakfast nap, we attended a culinary demonstration by the chef—who just boarded in Sydney. Mushroom Risotto and Raspberry Soup were the features of the show. R—a gourmet chef at home—makes the risotto all the time, but is interested in making the soup.

Had our mile walk around the Promenade Deck, then lunch. The ship seems uncomfortably hot—our room was very stuffy last night. We’ve seen other people request fans and some people with verandahs slept with their doors open.

The Captain has taken every opportunity to scold us into washing our hands or using the ubiquitous Purell dispensers stationed everywhere on the ship. He is in morbid dread of having an epidemic of Norovirus sweep the ship. Of course, we've all heard of other ships with 600 or more cases. However, he sites odd things like whole prisons shut down (what? They let the convicts go free?) and etc.

Read and wandered around the ship. Indulged in the spa, then napped. It’s our first formal night, so it took us longer to get ready. Went to the “Meet the Captain” gathering. He was not as chatty as the night before. However, he did tell us the reason we are docking in Geelong and not in Melbourne (which our friend, Clay Alder, had carefully coached us to pronounce properly, "Melbin.") as originally planned is that Melbourne has the largest Greek population in the world outside of Greece. As many are employed in the fishing industry, the Orthodox Christmas annual event of the Blessing of the Waters actually closes Melbourne harbor every year. This is the first time Geelong has hosted a cruise ship and they are quite excited to have us.

Went down to dinner to finally meet our tablemates (we’re at a table for 8): They are Eddie and Shirley Goldberg and Roy and Francine Lodge (who reside in the Penthouse Suite)—the four are lifelong friends and are traveling from London. They seem quite delightful!

7 Jan. Geelong/Melbourne.

Awoke to the dulcet tones of our Captain at 7:30 a.m. telling us all shore excursions were cancelled. He felt it was too windy and a storm was threatening for the afternoon. The ship wasn’t in Geelong’s harbor, but rather in the bay outside the harbor.

“Hm,” we said; rolled over and went back to sleep.

He announced the problem every half hour from then on. Better than an alarm clock, that man.

Geelong Black Lighthouse (one of only 3 in the world - and the only one in the Southern Hemisphere) at Fort Queenscliff

Around noon, after we’d taken a turn around the deck—and almost gotten blown off our feet—the Captain told us that the Geelong media (a TV crew had been on board filming at 3 a.m. apparently) was broadcasting that the ship had a mechanical “fault” and that’s why we hadn’t docked. The Captain said he was trying to get in touch with the station to tell them the “real facts.”

One “real fact” the Captain wasn’t sharing with the passengers was that we were in the way of the remnants of Tropical Cyclone (read Hurricane) Clovis, which had drenched Perth 3 days previously (and I’d been watching the national weather in Sydney when it hit) and had been storming across southern Australia since. The ship’s informational channel even had the barometric readings removed from it (at one point, I did see a reading of 29.6 trending downward before it was taken off).

After lunch, R and I went up to the Crow’s Nest (the bar at the top of the ship) to practice dancing, We quit when we noticed that out one window on one side we could only see ocean, and on the opposite side, only sea. The waiters were nudging each other and pointing to the windows, too.

Down in our cabin, we went out on the verandah. The sea was getting choppy. The Captain had sent the tender (one of the lifeboats) to the dock to pick up some passengers and luggage that hadn’t made it on in Sydney. The little boat was having a hell of a time getting back to the ship, being bounced side to side and back and forth. Glad we weren’t on it! Meanwhile, the ship could no longer hold still at anchor, and so would drift side-ways until it was across the mouth of the harbor. Then the Captain would turn the ship back. We did that perhaps 10 times. It was quite dizzying.

The pilot boat struggles through rough seas at Port Phillip Bay, off Geelong, Australia. Note the White Lighthouse in the background.

At four, we started out of the bay. The pilot ship (the pilot had already come aboard to steer us out) struggled to stay alongside us as the waves got bigger and bigger and bigger! Finally, it darted behind us, picking up the pilot again (a move I’ve never seen done) and went back to Geelong. As we hit the 12' swells of the Tasman Sea, the Captain came on and said that the pilot told him it was the worst weather he’d seen in the bay in 40 years. The Captain said he was glad he had made the decision not to disembark passengers, as no one wanted to ride those waves in a lifeboat. Then he warned us that the Tasman is always rough, but that we should expect “tough weather” until 1 a.m. “You might want to stay in your cabins.”

Seas continued rough, but R and I went up to the spa. As I was leaving, I discovered a woman who was becoming very badly sea sick in the locker room. I helped her to the elevator. She’s down on Deck 5, where the motion shouldn’t be quite as severe as it is on deck 10.

After showers, had the Gibsons over for champagne. Karen said she was a little queasy, but after a glass of Dom, she cheered up considerably.

Went down to dinner (2 floors) and saw few at their tables. Eddie and Sheila had to leave as the motion was just too much for them. The rest of us pressed on. The Captain sent around glasses of champagne to everyone as an apology for not letting us get off the ship. Late in the meal, there were a series of strange motions that made several people gasp out loud. Then there were a couple of hard shakes, like an earthquake—and a bang! Crockery, silverware and glasses went crashing to the floor. Frannie got a glass of champagne in her lap. People headed for the exits in a bunch. We stayed put, figuring one didn’t want to be stuck in an overcrowded elevator with the ship doing the watusi—and there didn’t seem to be anything safe in being in a crowd of high-heel wearing people getting thrown around the stairs. After yet another series of shakes (although less violent than the first) and more crockery broken, we gave up and headed back to our cabins.

Went to bed, but woke up at 3 a.m. to calm seas. Whew!

8 Jan. Burnie, Tasmania.

Downtown Burnie, Australia

Downtown Burnie, Tasmania

We are docked next to an enormous pile of wood chips. Got off the ship and took the shuttle into Burnie at 10. A nice day in the mid-60s. Went to the Information Center where they had a little museum about the founding of the town and the digging of the harbor (it didn’t have a natural port until then). Burnie is a very working class town. It reminded us a lot of Waterville, Maine (but smaller). It’s rather alarming to have all these American fast food restaurants in this tiny town. Doesn’t leave much room for local cuisine.

Went back to the ship for lunch, then off on a tour at 1. Hopped on a bus and drove 45 minutes to Gunns Plains in a lovely part of the country. The caves we were taken to were down very steep stairs and featured formations of a kind we’d never seen before. Sort of sheet-like. Also saw glow worms, but not many. Apparently, in wet years, platypus can be seen swimming in the stream that runs through (and made) the cave... but not this year. As mentioned before, it’s a bad drought year. R hit his head on a rock in a low spot on the trail. Sounded like a rock hitting a coconut. He said he was seeing stars. Yike!

Then we were bussed to Wing’s Wildlife Farm. This is a third generation farm that collects injured and orphaned wildlife. Outside of a zoo, I’ve never seen such a collection of critters. There were wallabys, pandamelons, Tasmanian Devils, many parrots plus a Kookaburra and fish.

We loved the pandamelons—which are a mini kangaroo. One small female allowed people to scratch her chest. She tipped back her head and gave herself over to bliss—remarkable!

Came face to face with a Koala. They are a lot bigger than I thought they'd be—at least this one is. Very slow moving, too. The guide asked if I'd like to hold him and I declined. This big fella looks as if he weighs 35-40 lbs and I just don't have any interest in holding something that reeks of eucalyptus and has claws clinging to me.

A Zen-like Koala. Did Buddha smell like eucalyptus?

Then R spotted this flying squirrel. "Put him on your shoulder, honey!" And the guide plopped the little guy on my collar bone. I think both of us look somewhat alarmed, here. I know I was, to have a flying mouse perched near my ear. OK, maybe I'm not cut out for all this "up close and personal with nature" stuff.

Tasmanian Devils do not actually like other Devils. Look closely and you will see that the first Devil is growling at another one in the hollow tree stump. They made quite a noise!

The Tasmanian Devils were a lot smaller than I thought they’d be. They were really quite fierce with each other. While they aren’t on the endangered species list, apparently they soon will be. There is a horrible facial tumor/ cancer going on with them. First it disfigures, then kills.

R found the kangaroos—his favorite animals. I had stopped at the loo and walked up the hill to the 'roo pen. I could have seen R in the dark, as he was just glowing with excitement at being able to touch and talk with the critters lying about in the pen. I don’t think he even minded the ‘roo poo on his shoes!

We returned to the ship just in time for the local bagpipe band to pipe us aboard. They marched beside the ship as we cast off, playing odd tunes like “Take the A Train” and “Dixie.” The Mayor and Council marched and waved beside them.

9 Jan. Crossing the Tasman Sea.

Overcast, cool, windy and choppy, as promised in the early morning chat from the Captain. Folks in Australia and New Zealand refer to this stretch of water as "The Ditch," just as the British refer to the Atlantic Ocean between the U.K. and the U.S. as "The Pond."

We slept late as the time changed (forward 1 hour)—much to the consternation of our very efficient cabin steward, Virgo (pronounced FUR-go). Couldn’t do much today as it was too nasty on deck for walks. We went to sit by the pool and read (the pool is under a retractable roof, closed for today). The pool was covered with a net, but not drained. Every so often, the water would slosh out, sometimes in spectacular waves. I would have taken a picture, but I wasn’t interested in getting thrown around the stairway to get my camera.

We were called to New Zealand Immigration at 2 (we were supposed to have them aboard at Geelong to Tasmania, but the rough weather delayed them boarding until Tasmania—so now they get a 3 day free cruise). A lot of sitting around and waiting for not a lot of business.

At 3 I went to have my “Hot Lava Rock Massage”—a birthday present from R (and the soonest I could schedule it). The message part was great—and I desperately needed it with all the physical activity we’ve been doing renovating the new house. But they weren’t kidding around about the temperature of the rocks. They were HOT! I felt as if I were being cooked in strips.

Just as the message ended, the fire alarm went off. (Great, I thought, my skin is smoking.) The masseuse advised me to stay put, as all the fire doors on the ship would be shut and it wouldn’t be possible to get out of the spa. She said they’d been having the occasional alarm for a few weeks. Last time it was a smoking bearing (and it was this time, too). Then she told me more about our excitement outside of Geelong. That big shudder and bump we’d felt was a wave that had crashed into the bow. She said her manager—whose office has a porthole to the bow—saw the wave come up and over the bow and thought, “Hm, I wonder if I should get my life jacket?” The crew were later told that this 30' wave “got caught under the hull.” Probably, as it came out under the stern, that’s what caused the dining room to loose all its crockery.

Returned to our cabin, following the Lido Deck cooks, who were opening the fire doors in the passageways. They got to the end of the hall (near our cabin) and started giggling. “We’re lost,” one exclaimed, between giggles. “This isn’t the right deck!”

Jacqueline and Robin Simonds, Karen and Dave Gibson, Emil the Controller, Fran and Roy Lodge, Shirley and Eddie Goldberg on the Statendam for a formal night. Photo by the Statendam staff photographer.

Went to dinner (another formal night) and discovered 9 places set instead of the usual 8. This amused us as Dave had just told us a story the previous night about a cruise where a mysterious extra place-setting had appeared on one of their previous cruises. Dave—wag that he is—told the other diners that his mistress was joining them. Just then, a very beautiful young woman joined them. Dave said he had great respect from the other men at the table from then on! So we all waited with great anticipation to see who would join us. A young, bald officer came and sat at the table. I whispered to my friends. “It’s Karen’s boy-toy!” It turned out his name is Emil and he is the Controller for the ship (the money guy) and he had come to the table in honor of our penthouse-dwelling tablemates, Roy and Fran (the Captain doesn’t eat with the guests). Along with being allowed his august presence, he paid for all the wine for the night. He was a pleasant guy and we enjoyed his company... but mostly the FREE wine!

10 Jan. Crossing the Tasman Sea.

Better weather and not nearly as choppy. Haven’t much to report. Spent much of the day reading and relaxing by the - now quiet - pool. Just one thing, can we get some sort of international law passed that bans men over 30 and over 200 lbs. from EVER wearing Speedo swimsuits? Yi!

After dinner, went up on the very top deck, since this is the first clear night we’ve had for star-gazing. Having not studied a star map before we came out, we were a bit at a loss to locate the Southern Cross.

A man who was standing in the shadows said, “Looking for the Southern Cross?”

We said we were, and he beckoned us into the dark. He pointed up. Sure enough, the constellation we’d guessed was it. Then the man pointed out the Greater and Lesser Magellanic Clouds. That was pretty neat. I am a tyro at star-looking. I was tripping out that my pal Orion, who I say good night to every evening from my back yard was... upside down! Weird.

We thanked the man (we never did see his face) and headed to the stairs. A woman came up looking at the stars. The man in the dark said, “Looking for the Southern Cross?” I guess everyone needs to feel special.